A change of scene

I periodically toy with the idea of changing the format of the blog, procrastination and an obsessive personality usually mean nothing happens. Pleasing then to see that blogger has allowed the reader to change and pick the format they like the most themselves.

La Violetta 'La Ciornia' Shiraz 2008

Great Southern, Western Australia. Shiraz, Viognier 2%. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A60

Though I would have seen the 2009 review by Jamie Goode, my first, formed recollection is from September 2010. Since then an unfulfilled yearning. . . Until last week.

If you are a hard core wino, you will know the satisfaction of eventually finding a sought after bottle. It must be one of the early and surest signs of vinous insanity. That laborious and often unrewarding search for an esoteric bottle, the search that makes no sense to individuals sane or alcoholic.

A fleeting note of ripe blackcurrant (? DMS) before a more expected and persistent blackberry, an enticing fog of spice and pepper and a whiff of leather. Wonderful acidity and to start this seems quite lean and muscular in the mouth. A peppered steak. . . First impression, of course, are often misleading, and in time a sweet core emerges. For a moment it reminds me of the Clonakilla Syrah. That silky but firm palate which by nights end has shifted shape to show more cream and softness. Delicious. 93-95. Now - 2014.

Buying wine from Winosapien

Can you buy wine from winosapien? No.*
Is winosapien on Twitter? No.**
Is winosapien on Facebook? No!

There is however an internet doppelgänger who is seeking to fill these gaps. I write now to stress that I have no involvement in any of this. It's not me. . .

I recently discovered that some entity has decided to set up an internet wine retail business, called winosapien. There's nothing on the website, only a link to an unfollowed twitter account (not me) and a similarly lonely facebook account.

I harbour no malice. Perhaps the retailer will be superb, offering vinous esoteria. I did however want to point out, that giving your new and unheralded business the same name as an existing internet site, over which you have no control, is fraught with potentially unforeseen complications.

I hope for instance that my readers will be far less confused than any prospective customers of the proposed winosapien retail site, which is currently nothing more than a counting clock. . .

* I'd never want to sell any of the the wines I really liked.
** Though several sources helpfully tweet the arrival of new wino sapien blog posts.

I Giusti & Zanza Perbruno 2006

Toscana, Italy. Shiraz. 14%. Cork. Approx $A50

A beautiful label - three wings and the words Ali per non cadere. Wings to stay high.

Dark and deep. Tasted blind, I think I would have trouble calling this anything but West Australian. . . Berries (Mulberry and blue), ink, chocolate, earth and a fleeting suggestion of wax and lavender. Spice cut with glue. . . Brisk and grainy, a hint of initial sweetness to offset the eventual austerity. Chewy, mocha flavoured tannins, this is competent and pleasing, but I had hoped for more. 90. Now - 2016.

Judging a wine by its label

I've declared my hand before, I'm a sucker for an eye catching label. I've managed to resist critters, but it seems I've a soft spot for monsters. The implicit message on this bottle, where the monster bears a striking resemblance to Julia Donaldon's Gruffalo, is that it will be large, lumbering and perhaps a touch sweet and over extracted. The more generous might call it a BBQ wine, as if the clumsiness will be forgiven if it is eaten with charred and overcooked meat.

Lucy Margaux Jim's Pinot noir 2010

Lucy Margaux Jim's Pinot noir 2010Uraidla Valley, Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Pinot noir. 13.8%. Diam. Approx $A45

Quite delicious but also idiosyncratic and challenging. Unfiltered and unfined there's a glorious murkiness to the eye. It's richly scented, though the olfactory signature changes and reforms as the night proceeds. It's pretty and floral with crushed strawberries to begin, but later it seems more spiced, earthy and stem laden. Slightly sweet and metallic, the emphasis is forward and the impression is of something globular, concentrated and savoury. Once again spice (ginger and white pepper), zip, mineral and char. It's layered and complex, expansive and a touch warm. Fascinating.

The Emperor's new clothes?

As Max Allen highlighted in his recent book, one of the interesting things happening in Australian wine is the emergence of a new breed of maker whose actions are informed more by terroir and biodynamics than formula and intervention. It's hard not to get swept along by the enthusiasm and beautiful labels. Though the skeptic in me wonders if the newness and hype is masking any vinous shortcomings, my inner child is already impatiently fondling and inspecting the bottle making plans for consumption.