Monday, May 16, 2011

Wynns John Riddoch 1998

Coonawarra, South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 13.5%. Cork (excellent condition). Source: cellar.

I suspect Ernest Shackleton and John Riddoch have little in common*, though the respective time lines of their lives do coalesce for the last portion of the 19th century and they both took calculated risks at considerable cost.

I've been skimming through a wonderful book, Explorers, and I keep returning to the advert Shackleton placed for crew for his third trip to the Antarctic. He selected 56 men from 5000 applicants, who responded to this:

Wanted. Men for hazardous journey. Low wages. Bitter cold. Long hours of complete darkness. Safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition in the event of success.

The wine has changed little since 2007. It's still dark and deep with years to go before it sleeps. Slightly stinky and reductive to begin, an oak forest, shellac and polish, bay leaf, malt, soy, black olive tapenade and dark chocolate. Rich and layered, a sweet flourish to open and lovely poise, depth and length. A bitter chocolate, lead pencil finish. Excellent. Now - 2020.

* Post script and correction: An email for an informed source - John Riddoch's grandson, John Rymill was in fact a noted and accomplished polar explorer. He traveled to and explored the Antarctic in 1934 - 37 in a schooner aptly renamed the Penola.

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