Austria. Screwcap (Saranex liner). 187ml bottle, with a tartrate crystal at the bottom. Approx $A30.I've previously confessed my love for small bottles, but I'm not blind to their potential problems. Such as deciding very late at night that such a little thing can do no harm, and then over chilling it in the freezer, so that it starts tasting unfocused and metallic. It transfigures with warmth and presumably for those with more sense and warmer freezers or better timing, it will sing from the beginning. Pale orange, I can't help but smell marmalade and cotton candy, though later acacia, botrytis and the reassuring scent of freshly washed woolens. Before it warms it's like drinking water flavoured with burnt toffee, or a spoon of maltose, it seems to be missing a sting. In time it rewards and gains more texture, depth and appeal, though by bottle's end, I still get the sense that it could be more shapely and defined. 89-90. Now.
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